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THE majestic grasslands, rugged deserts and snow-capped mountains of western Xinjiang he been home to China’s largest community of ethnic Kirgiz for centuries. A Muslim Turkic people, China’s Kirgiz are the linguistic and ethnic brethren of the Central Asian Kirgiz that constitute the majority population of the bordering Kyrgyz Republic.
Herding and hunting he always been the traditional means of livelihood for the nomadic Kirgiz.
In the warmer months, Kirgiz would move their herds from one patch of land to another in the perennial hunt for fresh pasture. In winter, hunting became the main occupation. Day in, day out, hunting parties headed out into the Gobi, a barren desert of shifting sands, rugged outcrops and low shrubs. Hunts featured a twofold attack: mounted Kirgiz men flushed out game, leing whirlwinds of dust in their wake, while trained hawks prepared for an aerial kill.
Falconry is believed to he originated in either Mesopotamia or Mongolia and China some 4,000 years ago. Today, it is an essential part of Kirgiz traditions and culture. In Akqi, a frontier town near the Chinese-Kyrgyzstan border in the foothills of the Tianshan Mountains, almost every Kirgiz family keeps a hawk. As they watch over their grazing flocks, locals take time out to train hawks on nearby Kokshal and Karateke Mountains and along the Toshigan River.
The hawk variety on the Pamir Plateau is medium-sized and gray with short, rounded wings. The hawk joins hounds as essential companions to local hunters.
I arrived at Yalangqi, a village a few miles from Akqi Town, in late winter, and found accommodation with the Biekes. Makar Bieke, 50
Although traditional lifestyles are still very much alive in the remote Kirgiz community, modern amenities he trickled in, which ensure locals he access to the world around them. Almost every household has a motorcycle, and some he cars. A few years ago, a bridge was built over the river that lies between Yalangqi Village and Akqi Town, cutting the motorbike ride between them from four hours to 30 minutes.
Local homes are all, detached cab-ins made of adobe and hay. The design is a homage to the nomads’ traditional dwelling, the tent. Adobe and hay don’t support largestructures, and the aller rooms of the cabins inhibit heat loss and are more resistant to strong winds. Makar’s cabin has three bedrooms, the eastern one for guests. A brick bed takes much of the space in the room and is covered with an ornately embroidered felt blanket.While locals he their own unofficial timezone, the official time in Xinjiang is still on par with Beijing, and the first rays of sunshine don’t strike the window until close to nine o’clock.
My hostess had already made breakfast by the time I woke up to my first full day in the village. I was shown to the bathroom. Though running water had been piped into the village several years ago, locals hen’t forgotten their past, and value every drop. For washing hands and faces, taps are never left running; residents prefer to pour a all amount of water into their palms and scrub. Not a milliliter is wasted.
Local breakfast is tea and homemade bread. Makar’s eldest daughter Guli served our tea and cut the bread. In Kirgiz homes, it’s the respected role of the women of a household to prepare food and attend to the dining table. Makar has four children, but Guli is the only one who lives with her parents. She works in the town, while her younger siblings attend a boarding school.
Soon after breakfast Guli’s aunt, cousin and another cousin’s wife come to help her with some embroidery work to be done for her dowry. Every
As Guli and her visitors concentrated on the intricate stitching, her mother baked Nang, the local variety of the circular flatbread found throughout the Muslim world. It is the Kirgiz people’s staple food. Villagers bake a big batch every two or three days. My hostess took some dough which had been left to rise for several hours, and fashioned it into all buns. She then pressed the buns flat and placed them in a flat-bottomed wok over a pit in the earthen floor. She lit a brick of dry cattle dung – a popular, convenient fuel source among nomadic people everywhere. Half an hour later the bread was ready.
To honor me – the guest from far away – Makar’s extended family, including his 83-year-old mother, converged on his house for a lunch banquet. It was the weekend, and children were back from school. Makar kissed the cheek of his seven-year nephew after shaking hands with him, a traditional greeting among Kirgiz men.
Herding and hunting he always been the traditional means of livelihood for the nomadic Kirgiz.
In the warmer months, Kirgiz would move their herds from one patch of land to another in the perennial hunt for fresh pasture. In winter, hunting became the main occupation. Day in, day out, hunting parties headed out into the Gobi, a barren desert of shifting sands, rugged outcrops and low shrubs. Hunts featured a twofold attack: mounted Kirgiz men flushed out game, leing whirlwinds of dust in their wake, while trained hawks prepared for an aerial kill.
Falconry is believed to he originated in either Mesopotamia or Mongolia and China some 4,000 years ago. Today, it is an essential part of Kirgiz traditions and culture. In Akqi, a frontier town near the Chinese-Kyrgyzstan border in the foothills of the Tianshan Mountains, almost every Kirgiz family keeps a hawk. As they watch over their grazing flocks, locals take time out to train hawks on nearby Kokshal and Karateke Mountains and along the Toshigan River.
The hawk variety on the Pamir Plateau is medium-sized and gray with short, rounded wings. The hawk joins hounds as essential companions to local hunters.
I arrived at Yalangqi, a village a few miles from Akqi Town, in late winter, and found accommodation with the Biekes. Makar Bieke, 50
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, and his seven brothers are said to be among the best horsemen and hunters in the region. Makar tells me his eldest brother, now in his 60s, can still ride like the wind with his hawk firmly perched on his shoulder.Although traditional lifestyles are still very much alive in the remote Kirgiz community, modern amenities he trickled in, which ensure locals he access to the world around them. Almost every household has a motorcycle, and some he cars. A few years ago, a bridge was built over the river that lies between Yalangqi Village and Akqi Town, cutting the motorbike ride between them from four hours to 30 minutes.
Local homes are all, detached cab-ins made of adobe and hay. The design is a homage to the nomads’ traditional dwelling, the tent. Adobe and hay don’t support largestructures, and the aller rooms of the cabins inhibit heat loss and are more resistant to strong winds. Makar’s cabin has three bedrooms, the eastern one for guests. A brick bed takes much of the space in the room and is covered with an ornately embroidered felt blanket.While locals he their own unofficial timezone, the official time in Xinjiang is still on par with Beijing, and the first rays of sunshine don’t strike the window until close to nine o’clock.
My hostess had already made breakfast by the time I woke up to my first full day in the village. I was shown to the bathroom. Though running water had been piped into the village several years ago, locals hen’t forgotten their past, and value every drop. For washing hands and faces, taps are never left running; residents prefer to pour a all amount of water into their palms and scrub. Not a milliliter is wasted.
Local breakfast is tea and homemade bread. Makar’s eldest daughter Guli served our tea and cut the bread. In Kirgiz homes, it’s the respected role of the women of a household to prepare food and attend to the dining table. Makar has four children, but Guli is the only one who lives with her parents. She works in the town, while her younger siblings attend a boarding school.
Soon after breakfast Guli’s aunt, cousin and another cousin’s wife come to help her with some embroidery work to be done for her dowry. Every
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Kirgiz family has a slim stand for needlework beside a brick bed. Embroidery is a lot of work: the chosen pattern is first chalked on a piece of cardboard before being impressed onto a black fabric. These marksare then redrawn with yogurt eared on the tip of a slender rod. Once the yogurt dries, the cloth is placed on the stand, and stitching begins with the yogurt lines as guidelines. The thread is tied after each piercing through the foundation fabric, creating a bulging effect on the surface.As Guli and her visitors concentrated on the intricate stitching, her mother baked Nang, the local variety of the circular flatbread found throughout the Muslim world. It is the Kirgiz people’s staple food. Villagers bake a big batch every two or three days. My hostess took some dough which had been left to rise for several hours, and fashioned it into all buns. She then pressed the buns flat and placed them in a flat-bottomed wok over a pit in the earthen floor. She lit a brick of dry cattle dung – a popular, convenient fuel source among nomadic people everywhere. Half an hour later the bread was ready.
To honor me – the guest from far away – Makar’s extended family, including his 83-year-old mother, converged on his house for a lunch banquet. It was the weekend, and children were back from school. Makar kissed the cheek of his seven-year nephew after shaking hands with him, a traditional greeting among Kirgiz men.
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